Burn and Etch - Dungeon Terrain Again

I'm on my third run of dungeon terrain. Laser cutting and etching do take practice. In the first image, I cut too many pieces. I meant to have 1 six-inch wall, 2 4" walls, 4 2" walls, and 4 1"x1" walls. I accidentally cut an extra 1x1 that could have been doors or details. 

On the prior run, I ran into a bunch of "fix it in post" issues. The red highlights are places where the laser power was off, or the wood was warped and didn't cut all the way through. The blue highlights are two pieces where I etched instead of burning a cutout. And the real insult is in yellow. Having known I was cutting too many 1x1 pillars, I failed to fix it by removing the parts. Hence the extra parts in the image above. 

The whole "I can fix that" defeats the purpose of having a laser. Handcutting dings up the pieces, causes scratches, or causes blowouts. These are all things the laser should do so I don't have to. 

Once I hammer out these issues, I plan on adding doors, tables, and other scenery to the collection. In a perfect world, I would sell the physical goods. I am hampered by shipping costs, which could be $20.00 per set. That seems self-defeating or at least very limiting. 

I might list them on Etsy or KoFi as a digital file.

An interesting byproduct of all of this cutting was that I made a ruin from scrap pieces. 

Maybe you remember the little structure I showed for my B2 Keep on the Borderlands Sessions. The little building above represents either the left or the right side of the fortified house. This is one of those Bob Ross moments where we know there is a cabin or whatnot, but nothing about who built it or who lived there. 

Since it is positioned on the rim of the valley, over the Caves of Chaos, it stands to reason that either the fortified house was abandoned when the monsters moved in. Or it could have been built afterward, as a beachhead against the monsters. 

Personally, I like the latter. I could imagine that forces from the Keep could have gotten a foothold against the actual monsters, but then it was destroyed with the coming of the priests. Perhaps the zombies and skeletons in the Caves are the former inhabitants of the fortification. 

Grim. 

I like telling myself these little stories. The cool thing about them is that when a character is supposed to have some lore or special knowledge, I can drop these little musings on them so they can tell the party. Sure, the story has to be brief, and it does turn into a game of telephone where the story distorts, but I make the player character's distortion canon to the campaign. It can make Bards, Wizards, and learned Clerics seem more special. 

Next up, we will return to Castle Amber. After that, I'll get painting. And third, I will tell you about The Game of the Weather Witch. 

Project Detour - Laser and Paint Edition

This week has a lot of detours. I've run the laser 4 times since Saturday. Now I have a lot of items to assemble and complete. I wrote a review and revamped my review page with HTML. I rolled a character for my X2 - Castle Amber campaign and have a piece or two to write on that. Finally, I have broken with Amazon for what I hope is the final time and have a new alternative in the wings. 

Let's go back to front: Amazon disabled my account because I don't generate enough clicks and sales.

Well, yes. There is no solid connection between Amazon and me. I have to dream up really awkward ways to work a link in. I'm not good at sales, and I use that awkwardness as a crutch. It's time to stop. 

What do I have as an alternative? 

Two items and three mentions: 

Awin, an affiliate marketing platform,
Libro.fm, an alternative to Amazon's Audible, 
and finally, Meeden Art, Inc., an art supply company marketing through Awin. 

I obviously love to read. I had hoped to pick up Libro.fm as an affiliate through Awin. They felt I wasn't a good match. I agree. This website is very niche. But I still want to support them and others.  

Let me tell you a bit about Libro.fm. They are like Audible, but their style is different. You can pick from three subscriptions: one book a month, two books a month, and a yearly subscription, with a great discount on 12 books in a year. 

Second, they are totally DRM-free, unlike Audible. 

Third, they allow you to designate a local bookstore as your favorite. When you purchase through Libro.fm, a portion of each membership or individual book sale goes to that bookstore. I have selected Sulfur Books, a glorious little bookstore in Clifton Springs, NY.  (I will come back and post again about Clifton Springs, but not here.)

While I don't have Libro.fm as an affiliate, I can share my membership link like this. When you click that link and place an order, I receive a free title. To be honest, considering the amount I read, that's better than gold. I could not be happier with this deal. 

If you have a website and you like books, maybe you should consider Libro.fm. This is not an affiliate program with approvals and such. It's offered to all of their members, for all users. I love it. 

Awin also led me to Meeden Art, Inc. I am very passionate about painting and drawing, despite not being very good. 

Creating an ad for art supplies is something I wouldn't have to work at. In fact, on day one, I purchased some paints and gave myself two laser cutting projects to support my artistic habits. I overpurchased in the extreme, but I will burn through this paint fairly quickly. 

The reason you are not seeing an ad for Meeden is that I need a tax document to complete the process, and it is tax season. I will be responsible and do my taxes early to get that document. Or, I won't post any ads until I do those taxes at the last possible second. I must roll for impulse control. :) 

Not being too strongly aligned with my TheseOldGames brand, they would be extremely prominent without being an off-ramp. This matches my tactics for DriveThruRPG. I can give you a link, you know what the link is for, and you can partake as you wish. 

And let me thank you and DTRPG again for that support. You and DriveThruRPG easily pay for my web costs. 

Moving backwards, I have created a new NPC for Castle Amber. Her name is Gabriella, or Gabby, and she is a witch. She is trapped just like the party but she has been here for a very long time. If you follow my suggestion and don't completely railroad the party into Castle Amber, you will need links back to your campaign world. Gabby is one of my links to home. 

I will be posting about her in my next run back to the Castle. These links to my Castle Amber series will display all of the posts in that category, so you may go all the way back to the beginning. Castle Amber is an epic module and could take all year to work through. 

In order to generate her, I used one of Timothy S. Brannan's books called Craft of the Wise: The Pagan Witch for Basic Era Games. This is one of a whole series on Witches for B/X style games. I use the OSE ruleset, and we will see how well these books merge with that system. 

This was also an opportunity to refresh my review page with actual HTML. It is so much easier to update now. Let me know what you think in the comments, either here or there. My pages have a comment section, too. 

Let me share the last item, the item I wanted to be the focus of this post, but failed at. I have a couple of items I rocked out with the laser. The first item was a repeat of physical dungeon terrain. This is the collision of art and gaming. I love making terrain and painting figures. 

The dungeon terrain consists of 1", 2", 4", and 6" walls, pictured in the upper left of this image. They are modular and now have a texture etched on them. In the near future, I will stain one set and paint another. I am not sure how I want them to look, so I want to see both styles. 

I will be doing a follow up post on these little bits and bobs. 

The next two projects are obvious for painting. I was able to cut a palette out of 1/8" plywood. It came out nicely. I thought it would be too thin, but it wasn't. I also thought I would need to bevel the edge, but I didn't do that either. It works nicely as is. 

The final item was a color wheel. Color wheels are a self-teaching tool. However, they are annoying to do on canvas. You need 1/8" or 1/4" masking tape to lay out the spaces. I cannot tell you how annoying it is to mask out 135 or more spaces for paint. 

Etching a color wheel is amazingly fast. I could do this on canvas, but I wanted to try a wood panel. It's nearly perfect. Zoom in, and you will see that I dropped the brush in the red/pink area. If I had masked that area with tape, that mark would have been on the tape. 

Oh, well.  

The final thing I will comment on is my intended structural changes to the website. I have nearly finished the Review Page and this simple change makes it simple to maintain. I will need to do more reviews in the future.  

One other change I made was to my post categories. I now have a template so I can post a whole series of articles and link back to them via a single category search.  That is very useful and was a trivia change all readers can see, but it is non-disruptive. 

In 2026, I will be marching backwards and cleaning up articles and posts, mostly for grammar. For all non-game book reviews, I will be adding my Libro.fm link. Once I have Awin and Meeden Art set up, I will also be applying ads to posts, too. 

Thanks for sticking with me through these changes. 

New Laser Projects: Boxes and Dungeon Tiles

I have cooked up two different products I hope to sell in the near future: Card Boxes and Dungeon Tiles. 

Let me start with the Commander Deck Box. This link is to Etsy. I receive no remuneration for this. I liked the design for a variety of different projects, so I removed the logo and started cutting. 

The files have a restriction or two. First, the creator didn't license the logos, so I removed them. Second, I can't sell digital products based on this. BUT the creator allows sales of physical items. 

Good enough for me.  

I have no idea how to play Magic: The Gathering, but I have a lot of friends who do. 

Second, this box also accommodates Battletech Alpha Strike cards, so I have personal use for it. I could see this box holding a whole stack of cards, dice, and a lance or two of Mechs. It's even tall enough to accommodate an Atlas, the tallest figure made. 

This is a great design. 

I could also see this box holding thread, needles, and bobbins as is. Additionally, my wife has a ton of oils for a diffuser. This is perfect for that, too. 

If I downscaled the size, it would nicely hold 4 different types of tea. Upscaling would make a nice A5 journal holder with space for pencils or markers. There are so many different options for just one product. 

I love it. 

Next is a design of my own. I made myself some dungeon tiles, something I have done on paper in the past. This 3D dungeon design is more ot my liking. 

Since the box above required several sheets of wood, I added a couple of the smaller pieces as a test print. These are 1" x 1" columns and 2" x 2" walls. They are simply downscaled storage boxes. I also have designs for 4" and 6" walls. I would like to make some doors and other decorations. 

I love how these came out. I could do so much with just these 6 pieces. 

Since this was a test cut, I didn't bother to etch the stone on the surfaces. Although the laser can go faster when etching, the amount of detail really slows the process. 

These 6 came together quickly. After messing with them for a bit, I realized I could do levels, stairs, columns, and corners. They are super light because they are hollow boxes. 

What I envision is a 12" by 12" by 2.5" box containing dozens of pieces. Since each piece is exactly an inch thick, I could put around 121 inches worth of walls in that box, with some space to spare. The lid of the box and the bottom of the box would be etched with stone work to act as a base or platform. 

In looking at these, I was thinking of gray paint or natural wood. But I could also spray them with chalkboard paint or dry-erase paint so people could draw on them. The possibilities are endless. 

Here is what the design looks like in Inkscape: 

I may sell the digital file over on my Ko-Fi page and sell physical product in person. (Insert lament about the price of shipping.) 

I might refine the design. The bottom of each piece has a raised bottom, which strengthens the design. I don't know if that is really necessary. They are so light and strong with just the top end cap. I did this out of habit; large boxes need that extra structure to stay rigid. That doesn't seem to be the case with something so small. 

Let me know what you think in the comments. 

The Travelling Box

File under things I have done and should have done. Way back in 2020, I posted about a game by GDW called Striker. I assured myself that I would read and review it. That didn't happen. What really happened was I stuck the box in a drawer and moved it to the garage. 

That was a win because when the house burned a year later, I found a desk full of game books in the garage, which did not burn. 

Fast forward four years. 

I still haven't read this one, but I should. 

One of the problems with old games is that the cardboard boxes often fall apart, regardless of whether they are exposed to fire or not. This box is ok, but in a few years, it won't be. I cannot tell you how many games I have without boxes. This cramps my style of reading and reviewing things. 

However, I now have a laser cutter, which is also contributing to my lack of reading and reviewing. Funny how hobbies battle with each other. Here is my grand plan: Make boxes for games. 

This box is designed to fit the small booklet games that were so popular decades ago. The exterior dimensions are 6 1/4" (15.8 cm) x 9 1/4" (23.5 cm) x 1 3/4" (4.5 cm). The bottom panel has reinforcing teeth, and the lid has a backplate to prevent flex. 

This is a prototype, but once I have the design down, I plan to sell them on my website. I need to tweak the design a little. As you can see, it is a tiny bit too small for the modern hardback books that are common today.

I also had a friend ask if I could felt the interior, to prevent rattling. That means I need to make the box a smidgen larger. And learn how to apply the felt. Once I am 100% with my dimensions, I'll see how good my painting and staining skills are after all these years. 

These boxes have lift-off lids, which I like, but I will probably design two with wooden hinges and a fourth with metal. I need to set a clear goal and stop fidgeting with the design like I did in the picture to the left.  

I hope to have these for sale on Ko-Fi by September 1st. In these few weeks, I need to get a lot done. 

Laser Cutter Update

I took some time to knock out a few projects this weekend. I created two different-sized boxes using an online template, finished a couple more bowls, and my wife added two requests for her plaque holder. 

It's really cool to have a laser cutter, but it is difficult to pick out which items to spend time on. 

The boxes are 9x5x2 1/4 and 6x4 3/4x1 1/4. They don't really suit any particular project I have in mind, but I will use these to practice staining and painting. Once have the finishing bit down, I will scale them up to hold figures and models.

What size would be best for figures? I'd really like to stop storing my Battlemechs in a terrium to protect them from my evil cats.  

The lids are totally plain, so I might add some designs to them. I don't really have the knack of double burning, where I cut out one lid and then burn an image on it, so I need to work on that process. 

Also, this particular type of wood is very "pitchy". The brown streaks in the images aren't an imperfection in the wood; it is the tar-like material that comes out of the wood when I cut with the laser. 

You can really see this substance in the images of the bowls. The small hexagon bowls are 5 3/4 by 1 1/2, while the larger ones are 6 1/2 x 2 inches. These examples highlight my lack of skill in finishing items. I tried painting some and finished the others with beeswax. I do like the beeswax finish. 

I can sand that brown stuff off, but with each layer of the bowl being 3/8 inch wide, sanding this one project is difficult. Sanding the boxes is a snap. This also highlights a couple of problems with these types of projects. I will hit on this last*. 

I don't know what the last two items are called. My wife purchased some home decor from 15 Monkeys. These included door hangers, signs, and these "plaques", for lack of a better word. Beth, the owner of 15 Monkeys, does a couple of subscription packages which we really enjoy. However, there are only so many Disney-themed items you can have in one home. My wife tends to switch up the subscriptions. 

You should check out 15 Monkeys on FB and on the website above. We have so many cool things designed by Beth. 

Jen asked me to make a couple of Dave Matthews Band-themed plaques to go in the holder she got from Beth. They are really easy to make if you have the measurements and a good idea of what you want. In the first image, you can see the DMB Coffee Rings, and a fire dancer in the second. 

What makes a good design is all in the finishing. Beth's 15 Monkey's designs are perfect, every time. These, not so much. My wife likes the natural wood, but that style doesn't match the holder. I might simply place hooks on my designs to be used as wall hangings. 

The last issue is, I'm happy to make my wife or myself something quick and kitchy. However, I have this vision of actually selling items. I don't have a storefront; I am just an online digital retailer. While one of my outlets does support physical goods, I am stuck with the twin dilemma of what style/size at what price? 

Costing out materials is easy. All of the items in this post cost less than $3 in materials. 

The machinery cost is higher. I have two computers, a laser cutter, a tablesaw, 3d printer, and a host of other tools I need to produce these items. As I use each tool, the price per item goes down. That is weird.  

Costing time is something else. Worse, getting good at something takes more time than the actual production of a finished good. My time is worth something. 

For this example post, I ended up creating 12 bowls (6 unseen), 6 boxes (4 unseen), and 2 plaques. All of these are non-saleable items. I think I need to think in terms of projects, as opposed to time to create and assemble a single item. 

I am not sure how to proceed, but you can be sure to see some new and unique items on my websites. 

#SundayStew for October 6th, 2024 - All The Stuff That Happened This Week Part B

This is what I meant to do last week. I wanted to talk about all of the progress and setbacks I experienced in the past week. Here is a link to Part A, the recipe. 

First, I had this idea for cute little dice cups. All I needed was lids. The jars are recycled yogurt jars, the glass beads were leftovers from my daughter's fishbowl and the dice are something I had left over from a D&D campaign. 

Well, it seemed pretty simple until it wasn't. I was going to cut the lids from 3 mm thick wood but I accidentally bought a 5 mm sheet of birch project board. 

I did a trial run and it seemed fine. Except I cut a rectangular piece, not circles. I didn't think about what I was asking the laser to do. I used a caliper to measure the interior and exterior dimensions. These are Oui Yorgurt jars. Here are the measurements: 

Interior dimensions: 55.700 mm 
Exterior dimensions: 69.000 mm

Here is the problem of what I attempted to do with the laser. LaserGRBL and Falcon2 attempt to cut by moving back and forth along the X and Y axes. What that means for circles is the laser attempts to blast a series of holes through the target, in the shape of circles. It starts in the bottom corner and blasts a dot-like hole as deep as possible, then moves on to the next dot, and so on.  

This means the laser has to dump 22 watts of power into a pin-prick area and move on. When you are cutting straight lines, the laser moves at a predetermined speed dumping its power into the target. The beam can smoothly slice through wood. 

That is different from firing full power for a brief moment and moving a large distance before repeating. The energy is discontinuous. It took hours of repeated tries to cut circles. Eventually, it worked but I'll never do that again. 

I meant to burn a series of dice images onto the lids. Recently purchased some .svg files on Esty, so I thought this would be easy. 

No. Either I didn't like the images or the license on the image was objectable, most not extending the right to put the image on a physical object or otherwise modifying it. 

I suddenly landed a new project. Make a package of dice images specifically for various projects, from digital products to physical goods. On the left is a sample image. I suspect I will be doing blank dice and numbered dice, both black on white and white on black. These would be .svg files so they are easy to modify. For completeness, I would make a set of .tifs and .xcf files with a transparent background.

And my drive for completeness makes this project "epic scale". I need 6 images of blank dice, 60 images of numbered dice. I can double that for black on white and white on black. I can double that again for the .xcf and .tif files. More if I want to have .png and .jpg. 

Hell. I will probably break this into three different files. The Friends and Family Pack would be 12 .png images priced at PWYW and would be the hardest to modify. The Dev Pack at $7.99 would be blank dice in positive and negative for the user to create stuff from there. That is 12 images in 4-6 file types. The Complete Set of Dice would contain hundreds of files owing to the numbering and would be $24.99. As time permits, I will be completing and loading these to Ko-Fi and DriveThruRPG. 

The licensing would be really friendly for each. If you use them for a blog or digital product, an attribution someplace therein would be required. If you modify the files into something else, say colorize or make them part of a completely different image, then attribution is optional. Placing images on a physical object like a coffee mug, map, or t-shirt requires no attribution. The big hangup is the license does not permit the use of the files to make another clip art package. I don't care if you sell 10,000 books, T-shirts, and coffee mugs using the images, I just don't want someone reselling them in a new clip art package, modified or not.  

In other news, my son spotted a piece of artwork on ESTY that he wanted burned onto a plaque. Ah, another rabbit hole. 

BUT the file has the exact license I want. In fact, the creator asks people to post images of their products made with the image. That is exactly what I want to do with my dice images. 

This is an image of a KC-135 refueler. My son wants it flipped the other way around. The completist in me knows there is only one main door on the left side, so I have to modify this file for accuracy because there isn't a door on the right side. Also the little curved panel under and slightly behind the cockpit is also not visible on the opposite side. 

And that rabbit hole will continue throughout the next few weeks. Tomorrow's post will be about the 6 mechs I got painted. 

Let's get ready to paint some #mecha

 I do love a good Locust sculpt, but I have a few more figures queued up for painting. 

Usually, I do a light color as the base, but you can see I used black on the Mechs in the back rank. I've never tried that before. The Battlemaster and the Commando will be dark green, with red and white details, along with a bit of silver and gunmetal. 

The jars of dice are my next laser project. I'll be cutting some 3 mm thick lids for them. The next generation will have laser-etched glass, but I need to buy a rotating stand for that. 

Back with Frickin' Laser Beams!

I am back. And now I have a laser. 

I purchased the Creality Falcon2 22-watt laser with all of the trimmings. I have used a laser in the past, however, that machine was very next-level and way out of my price point. If you have the means, the Epilog series of lasers are amazing. I do not have the means but I set one up for the Buffalo Science Museum in 2013. 

I have dreamed of having my own machine and the Falcon2 was at my price point. 

Delivery was super quick and set up was "easy". I've had this machine for nearly two weeks and thanks to the Crowdstrike issue nuking every computer at work, I didn't get to unbox the Falcon2 for 12 days after delivery. 

I wanted to do an unboxing video, but I was too excited to film it and unboxing videos are not a habit I want to start. I will say the packing is excellent for both shipping and unboxing. They really thought out the consumer angle of this product. 

Setting up the laser is simple, but I would like to share some tips based on my background experience. These tips will draw on my time at Mattel/Fisher-Price and my experience with the Epilog laser. 

First, the Falcon2 has 60% of the power of the Epilog 35-watt system. This means the Falcon2 has less power needs and fewer protective systems. The Epilog is in a massive metal and glass box with specific venting methods set right into the frame. 

The Falcon2 only needs a tent with a fan to separate you from the laser. Additionally, the Falcon2 requires protective glasses despite having a plastic window on the tent AND a shield around the laser. Seriously, you only have two eyes so 3 layers of protection is good. 

Let's start with two issues I had with the tent. The tent sits on a plastic frame. The frame parts appear to be 3d printed plastic. It does require a bit of care assembling. Me and my hulk hands snapped one of the support tubes. 

This was laziness on my part. I could have used a little care or a dot of soap. 

The second issue I had was with the fan assembly for the tent. It comes with a fan shield.

PUT IT ON! 

Fans are devices with spinning blades. Despite everything Star Wars has taught me, they usually have covers. This prevents items like Jedi from jumping through them to destroy your Imperial Plans. 

It is a little-known fact that if you stick your fingers into a tiny fan to see if it is sucking or blowing, the blades always SUCK! 

In addition to the Falcon2 laser, I also purchased a very nice set of bandaids. If I had put the shield on the fan from the start, I could have saved a couple of bucks on bandaids.

Live and learn. 

Now we are to the third issue I had with this product. On my first try, the laser didn't work. It wouldn't even move. This indicates a firmware update is necessary. The process is pretty well documented, you simply load the file on to the provided SD card and stick the card in the SD card slot. This updates the main driver motors. 

Next, you load the laser head file on to the SD card and plug that into the laser head unit using the provided SD to USB-C connectors. It's odd, but it works. 

Having completed the update, the laser head moved and the air assist worked. But the laser would not fire. This one flummoxed me. I reached out to support to get help.  

They were ridiculously fast. I emailed at 9:45 pm and they responded by 5:00 am the next day. I was taken aback by the speed and the comprehensive support. They had me disassemble the laser head and check the internal connectors. This would have been daunting, but for the fact they provided all of the tools necessary to perform this check. They provided tools! 

Sadly, this was not my problem. 

Let's back up a bit and go to the same problem I always have... me. Remember how excited I was to assemble the product? I disassembled the whole thing and started over. This was not that hard. 

Before I go any further, I would like to explain the symptoms as they presented. 

Symptom One: the laser head and arm wouldn't move until I updated the firmware. Also, all of the lights blinked oddly. This was the red herring. After the update, the head and arm would move correctly including home and frame, and all of the lights gave correct/ready indicators including the laser, but the laser would not fire. 

On reassembly, I noticed something was off. There connector box on top of the arm for the laser head. When I pushed the connector in, it felt squishy. It also has a locking tab that would not lock. I couldn't see anything wrong until I used my camera.

In my haste, I bent a pin. It wasn't all that hard to push the pin back into place. I first tried the provided tweezers. That didn't work, they were a smidge too big. 

The next tool I reached for was an X-acto blade. It seemed like it would work, but I had just slashed my finger open on the fan so I put that down. What did do the trick was a clay sculpting tool. It has no sharp edges. 

I pushed the connector in and got the same squish. I thought I was being ham-handed again. Considering I already broke one part and stuck my finger into a spinning fan, this was highly probable.  

I fixed the pin again and took a better look at the problem. 

There are three cable management clips on the arm and the third leaves barely room to push the connector into the plug. Remember I mentioned they sent tools with the laser? 

One was an Allen wrench, the right size to remove the cable management clips. With that one clip removed, the connector was easy to fit, click and all. 

The last step was to put the clip back. I gave myself a lot of slack by homing the laser head and pulling the lines out of the way. The clip went back home and I had good cable management again. 

My Mattel/Fisher-Price training tells me they could have put this in the instructions but this isn't the typical consumer product. It's not like you are expecting a child to survive first contact with the beam.  

Since I was in troubleshooting mode, I simplified testing by loading one of the sample images to the SD card and disconnecting the laser from my computer. One problem at a time, right? 

I was immediately rewarded with the air assist powering up, the laser head homing and framing, and a brilliant blast of light. 

Within a few minutes, I had my first engraving. 

The image to the left shows the final product, not the process. You need to have all of that safety gear in place to use the laser. 

Like so: 

And so: 

And, also so: 

Ok. The smoke and CO detector was not actually provided with the device and is more of a nod to the fire that burned my house down once before. 

While you can read that as humor, it isn't. With the tent and fan in place and one window open, you can run this thing in your home without terrible odor problems. Even if your home includes 3 survivors of a fire who are sensitive to burning smells. So long as you have good ventilation. I would also like to point out the laser doesn't trigger a smoke detector 10 feet away in the same room. 

I suspect when I goof, it will trigger the detector, but I'll have to try harder to do that. Also, the product does have a built-in fire detector, so I'll have to try real hard. 

I polled four people on the smell and got some surprising reactions. 

Me, the guy who was not at home for the fire: It smelled alarming bad, like I was going to send my family into PTSD mode. 

Nathan, the kid who was outside but present for the fire: "The laser smells like smoke."

Catherine, the girl who got out last: "It smells like incense."

Kitty, my wife, ran back into the fire to save the cat and collapsed from smoke inhalation: "I can't smell anything." 

So, it does clearly smell funny but not that bad. 

I'd like to close with a final image, an improperly run speed vs power test. 

I cannot wait to get the hang of this and start making products.